Some critical thoughs on Everblight.

They is hard.

Out of my plastic battle box, pLylyth was easy-peasy. Simple assembly, easy to paint.

The Carnivean was a difficult assembly. There are two joins near the tail and the torso that are bare skin, and either leave a gap, or have to be filled and smoothed out. This leaves the jumble of legs/limbs difficult to reach with a brush. Partial assembly is not a good option if you want to fill those gaps.

The Shredders are tiny, with lots of mold lines on the insides of the legs, and fiddly bits to file and clean.

The Succubus wasn't too terrible, just time consuming.

And I'm nearing completing of the Naga Nightlurker. I'd call it the Naga Nightmare. The section where the tail meets the main body is hard to pin, hard to glue, and hard to fill the gap. I've used superglue gel, green stuff putty, testors gap filler AND am going to use a thin coat of white glue to try and smooth it all out. I'm hoping that pinning both the body and tail sections to the base will give it some stability and strength.

In all, I'd say that so far the Everblight models are a bitch to work with, and are definitley not for a beginner. Go with Khador if you're a newbie. My Khador army was, with a few rough spots on the resin/plastic Jacks, pretty simple and straightforward.

Oh, and I got the Man-O-War Kovnik matte coated today. It feels good to get him off the painting table.

Painting disasters.

I had hoped to be able to put a GW Druchii Violet wash over the white primer for my Everblight warbeasts, but the primer did not take the wash well. I'm going to have to go over and fix the whole thing.

And then tonight I spilled nearly the whole bottle of violet wash on my painting table. I swear, GW paint pots get worse and worse every time they change the pots. I've switched to Reaper colors for most of my layer paints, but I still use GW metallics and washes.

I really need to transfer the paints to empty Reaper bottles, but it sometimes takes a little disaster like that to put a fire under my ass.

Highlighting with washes.

I did up my Pan Oceania starter box with an experiment. I got a bottle of matte medium and used it to make my own washes on the fly. I used Reaper triads, using the lightest color as the base coat, and then did a wash of the medium color, and a second wash in the darkest color.

Not bad results. Fast and easy. The Orc trooper on the left was done with more traditional layering, which is why he looks a bit darker than the others.

Everblight, the lists.

After doing some research on Battle College, I started to form up my lists.

Battle box to 15 points. I'm going to add the Succubus. She brings the army right to 15 points, and has some neat support abilities.

15 to 25 points. I'm going to drop three of the Shredders, and add a Naga Nightlurker, a unit of Blighted Nyss Striders with the Unit Attachment, and a Forsaken.

The Naga is for hunting troublesome solos like Gorman DiWulfe. I'm starting with the Striders because of their stealth ability, and their Combined Ranged Attack.

25 to 35 points. I had considered more tarpit units, but instead decided on a very shooty army. So at 35 points I'll add the Blighted Nyss Archers, and their Unit Attachment. I'll also add a Blighted Nyss Shepherd, for more fury management, and a Strider Deathstalker to add more value to the Striders.

35 to 50 points. Time to add Typhon! And add 4 more Nyss Archers to round out the 50 points.

Should be a fun change from my Khador army. I'm really looking forward to building up this force and trying them out.

Mini review. Krylon primer and gloss sealer.

Over the Christmas break, I started my Everblight boxed set. I picked up some primer and sealer.

http://www.krylon.com/products/dual-paint-primer/

I primed pLylyth with the flat black. The paint went on smooth and matte. Excellent black primer. I will be using this in the future for my black priming.

I primed her warbeasts in the flat white. This went on a bit gunky and a bit gloss. After drying, the results were adequate. Not as good as the flat black, but acceptable. I will use this in the future if there is no better white primer available.

I finished pLylyth and gave her a coat of the Krylon Colormaster Acrylic Clear Gloss.

http://www.krylon.com/products/colormaster-acrylic-crystal-clear/

This went on extremely well, even though the humidity was 86%. I did use a green army man to test the gloss before blasting it on Lylyth! I can't stress this enough: It's much better to see a 25cent plastic army man get a frosted coat, than your newly painted miniature! 
The colormaster gloss is excellent, and I'll be using it in the future as well.

After the gloss coat dries, I"ll give Lylyth a coat of Testors Dullcote to take off the shine, while leaving a nice protective layer underneath.